Tuesday, 14 April 2015

Cleveland Way Day 4

Day 4 - 22.34mi or 35.95km
Beside Railway >> Outside Whitby


Up for 7am we packed up and were walking just a freight thundered by. I give him a friendly wave and they waved back. We walked onwards and head into a town called Skinningrove due to a divisions - cliff erosion. It added an extra mile or so to the walk but not a problem. I’d never actually seen much the coastal towns of East Yorkshire and was quite enjoying seeing them. Though saying that I’m quite happy to live inland away from the wind. Back the coast edge we wind striking us fast. We hobble down into Staith and come out with a hot drink each before walking onwards. We return to scaling the coast passing segments called Old Nab, Bracenberry Wyke, Thorndale Shaft and Port Mulgrave. We saw one more town before entered in the forest world again and finding a disused train tunnel beneath where we had just walked. I peered inside and could feel an immediate draft coming from within, sucking me in. It was dark and dripping lots of rubbish littered the ground and the tracks had long since been removed.
We walk onto Runwick Bay a tiny coastal town we make foot groves in the sand.
Next we pass through Sandends and can see Whitby Abbey in the distance. The towering, distinctive stone structure noticeable for miles and well known for Dracula and being able to summon hordes of Gothic fanatics and steampunk enthusiasts from all over the United Kingdom on all Hallows Eve. We paused for a snack then continued the last 2 miles into Whitby. Once there we resupply and I get some gloves as packing the tent away in the morning is exceptionally cold. Once done with our errands we head for our local chippy, a treat when whenever we’re there. I wish I’d just opted for the fish as once I'd eaten it I sadly couldn’t tackle the chips. It was huge and extremely delicious though, tender and full of flavour, the crispy batter giving my lips a coating of grease but I didn’t care and entered a state of food euphoria.  We had to remain still for an hour afterwards (again) and spent it lazily watched the local rowing club drag 4 boats out to see, the participants all varying in age, gender and skill but all joint in enthusiasm. We couldn’t have helped even if they’d needed it. Eventually we rolled out, prodding each other and set off climbing up the 199 steps up to the abbey. It was already closed and wouldn’t reopen till 10am so we walked on. We by this point were eager for a hot shower so headed into a campsite en route. No one was about, despite the place being full of caravans (both static and wheeled) and other holiday guests enjoying the coast from the comfort of their mobile homes. We headed into the bar where a local magician was entertaining a family. We ambled around looking for someone in charge and the barman beckoned us over.

“Ah, hello we were wondering how much it was for the night?”

“O, the owner doesn’t take tents I’m afraid”

“Doesn’t take tents?” we replied confused, it was a campsite, surely a small 2 person tent wasn’t going to be any bother.

“Sorry, campsite policy, one got blown down the cliffs a few years back, hadn’t been pegged properly, sorry for the inconvenience”

With a sigh we returned to the trail. I checked the shower block - locked key required, so we topped up our water and plodded on. After walking for 2 more miles we walked by a lovely converted lighthouse now a cottage. We eventually found a cosy flat spot, out the wind surrounded by a little out clove of rocks and slept like Gods.